Coco Chanel borrowed her first tweed jacket from the Duke of Westminster, her lover, in 1924; within a year she had made the look her own, with a tweed skirt suit appearing in her Paris collection for the first time.
In true showbiz style, Paris fashion week ended with one of its greatest hits. A Chanel show in homage to the iconic tweed suit was a surefire crowd pleaser. Clutching the squares of pink tweed sent out as invitations, guests sat on tweed-upholstered seats to view a pageant of tweed dresses, coats and suits. If it was possible to sing along with a catwalk show, the audience would have known all the words.
The designer Virginie Viard said she had been thinking about Coco Chanel who, on walks in the Scottish countryside, would gather ferns, flowers and heathers to use as the blueprint for her next collection's colour palette. This season, Coco came with a generous side order of Kristen Stewart as Diana, Princess of Wales in Pablo Larran's recent film Spencer. The bright tweeds on the runway, worn with short skirts and baubled with gilt buttons, recalled the opening scene in which Stewart, whose on-screen wardrobe was made by Chanel, runs across a muddy English field in a tartan tweed blazer and gobstopper pearl earrings.
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